fiberglass both batt and blown-in forms : for use in unfinished walls, including the foundations, floors and ceiling. rigid foam board: adding insulation to your attic yourself is
would then have the thermax ceiling. noah's plan calls for the rigid foam to be installed under the rafters. possibly 4' worth and then maybe add additional. i understand it may not be the easiest to cut rigid insulation and attach between the rafters, but it seems i read about this practice all the time as a way to create baffle vents.
rigid foam insulation: rigid foam, like the silverglo insulation from dr. energy saver, comes in panels or sheets of different thicknesses. when used as attic roof insulation, rigid foam can be installed between attic rafters, directly beneath attic rafters, or in both locations.
in the 2nd area i would be using it on the attic floor with the rigid foam against the drywall ceiling and filling the rest with batt insulation then plywood for storage. i would leave the attic as unconditioned space but hopefully increase the r value and reflect radiant heat gains in the summer. the second floor ceiling insulation is r-19
i'm looking to upgrade the insulation in my attic bumping it from an r-6 to r-30 or better, and while looking into things i realized i've never seen anyone use rigid or spray foam insulation in an attic. is there a particular caveat to these, or is it just that most people prefer fiberglass batts?
always cover the tops of the ceiling joists to make sure the insulation is deep enough to reach your target r-value and to prevent thermal bridging, the heat loss that occurs through the wood framing. attic hatch or door: affix rigid foam insulation to the attic side of the hatch or door. add weatherstripping around the perimeter and a
install attic and basement insulation. using 2″ furring strips nailed will allow r-10 rigid foam. it’s important to have adequate insulation in your ceiling areas. it’s also